Featured works and projects

Conceptualizing Fashion in Everyday Lives

Exploring how fashion is embedded in the complexity of people’s everyday lives

Modernity, Tradition and the Design of the ‘Industrial Village’ of Dormanstown 1917–1921

Investigating the design of Dormanstown, a model industrial town built for munitions workers in the late 1910s and 1920s on Teesside

Moving Home: From York to New Earswick

Researching how and why Seebohm Rowntree undertook his survey of York, and how this shaped the development of Rowntree’s model village, New Earswick

Authenticity, Tradition and Modernity

Marguerite Wildenhain and Ruth Duckworth, women émigré studio potters, 1936–1964

Research activity

Repository holdings 

Number of items: 6.

Buckley, Cheryl and Clark, Hazel (2016) In search of the everyday: museums, collections, and representations of fashion in London and New York In: Jenss, H., ed. Fashion Studies: research methods, sites and practices. Dress, Body, Culture . Bloomsbury, London, pp. 25-41. ISBN 9781472583185

Barker, Janine and Buckley, Cheryl (2015) The Primavera Story: 1946-67 In: Breward, Christopher, Fisher, Fiona and Wood, Ghislaine, eds. British Design: Tradition and Modernity after 1945. Bloomsbury, London, pp. 25-41. ISBN 9781472505378

Buckley, Cheryl (2012) Authentizität, tradition und moderne: Marguerite Wildenhain und Ruth Duckworth, emigrierte Atelierkeramikerinnen (1936–1964) In: Feustel, A., Hansen-Schaberg, I. and Thöner, W., eds. Entfernt: frauen des Bauhauses während der NS-Zeit - verfolgung und exil. Edition Text + Kritik, Munich, pp. 139-156. ISBN 3869162120

Buckley, Cheryl and Clark, Hazel (2012) Conceptualizing fashion in everyday lives Design Issues, 28 (4). pp. 18-28. ISSN 0747-9360

Buckley, Cheryl (2010) Modernity, Tradition and the Design of the ‘Industrial Village’ of Dormanstown 1917–1923 Journal of Design History, 23 (1). pp. 21-41. ISSN 0952-4649

Buckley, Cheryl (2008) From York to New Earswick: Reforming Working-Class Homes, 1899-1914 Studies in the Decorative Arts, 16 (1). pp. 92-106. ISSN 1069-8825

This list was generated on Fri Sep 16 14:38:27 2016 BST.

Books

Fashion and Everyday Life: Britain and America, 1890-2010, (with Hazel Clark), Bloomsbury, 2014, (forthcoming).

Designing Modern Britain, Reaktion Press, 2007.

Fashioning the Feminine: Representation and Women’s Fashion from the Fin de Siècle to the Present, (with Hilary Fawcett) I.B.Tauris, 2002.

Potters and Paintresses: Women Designers in the Pottery Industry, 1870-1955, Women's Press, 1990.

Between the Wars: Architecture and Design on Tyneside, 1919-1939, (with Lynne Walker),1982.

Isokon: Furniture, Architecture and Graphic Design, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 1980.

Book chapters

‘The Primavera Story’, (with Janine Barker) in British Design: Tradition and Modernity after 1948 British Design: Tradition and Modernity after 1948, (eds.) C. Breward, F. Fisher and G. Wood. Bloomsbury, 2015.

 ‘Authenticity, tradition and modernity: Marguerite Wildenhain and Ruth Duckworth, women émigré studio potters, 1936-1964’, in Entfernt: Frauen des Bauhauses während der NS-Zeit – Verfolgung und Exil, Women in Exile (volume 5), Adriane Feustel, Inge Hansen-Schaberg, Wolfgang Thöner (eds.) et+k, edition text+kritik, Richard Boorberg +Verlag GmbH & Co KG, Munich, 2012.

‘Designing for Industry: Suzanne Lalique, Clarice Cliff and Eva Zeisel’, Decorative Arts and Design, The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts Collection, Vol.II, Rosalind Pepall & Diane Charbonneau (eds.) Musée Beaux Arts de Montreal, Montreal, 2012.

‘Made in Patriarchy: Theories of Women and Design- A Reworking’, in David Brody & Hazel Clark (eds.) Design Studies. A Reader, Berg, 2009.

’Taking Design to Newcastle’ in Looking at Newcastle, Hilary Fawcett, (ed.) Northumbria University Press, 2007.

 ‘British Wartime Fashion and its representation in Home Chat, 1914-1918', inMaterial Strategies. Dress and Gender in Historical Perspective, Barbara Burman and Carole Turbin, (eds.) Blackwell, 2003.

 ‘Decorating the Object: Ceramics, Gender and the work of women designers’ inWomen artists and the decorative arts 1880-1935: the gender of ornament, Bridget Elliott and Janice Helland, (eds.) Ashgate, 2002.

‘Women Designers in Context’ in Susie Cooper, Ann Eatwell and Andrew Casey, (eds.) Antique Collectors’ Club, 2002.

 ‘Quietly Fine, Quietly Subversive: Women Ceramics Designers in Twentieth-century America’, in Women Designers in the USA 1900-2000 Diversity and Difference, Pat Kirkham, (ed.) Yale University Press, 2000.

‘Ceramics’, in Feminist Visual Culture: An Introduction, Claire Pajaczkowska and Fiona Carson, (eds.) Edinburgh University Press, 2000.

’History, Theory and Gender: Researching Women’s Relationship to the History of Design’, in Proceedings of the international conference Design Plus Research,Politecnico di Milan, Italy, 2000.

‘On the Margins: Theorising the history and significance of making and designing clothes at home’, in The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Barbara Burman, (ed.) Berg, 1999.

‘Made in Patriarchy: Theories of Women and Design, A Re-Working’, in Design and Feminism: Re-Visioning Spaces, Places, and Everyday Things, Joan Rothschild, (ed.) Rutgers University Press, 1999.

‘Design, Femininity and Modernism’ inUm-Ordnung. Angewandte Künste und Geschlecht in der Moderne, Cordula Bischoff and Christina Threuter, (eds.) Jonas Verlag, 1999.

‘Women and Design’, in Women’s Studies Encyclopaedia, Helen Tierney, (ed.) Greenwood Publishing, 1998.

Making Clothes at Home between the Wars’, in Obscure Objects of Desire? Reviewing the Crafts in the Twentieth Century, Tanya Harrod, (ed.) Crafts Council, 1997.

‘Design, femininity and modernism: interpreting the work of Susie Cooper', inDesign and Aesthetics, Jerry Palmer and Mo Dodson, (eds.) Routledge, 1996.

‘Children’s Clothes: design and promotion’, in The gendered object, Pat Kirkham, (ed.) Manchester University Press, 1996.

‘Modernity, Femininity and Regional Identity: Women and Fashion 1914-1940’, inStudies in History and Culture in North east England, Thomas E. Faulkner, (ed.) Octavian Press, 1996.

‘Women and Modernism: A Case Study of Grete Marks (1899-1990)’ in Women Designing. Redefining Design in Britain between the Wars, Jill Seddon and Suzette Worden, (eds.) Brighton, 1994.

 ‘Towards a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design’ in Design Discourse. History, Theory, Criticism, Victor Margolin, (ed.) University of Chicago Press, 1989.

 ‘Pottery Women’ in A View from the Interior. Feminism, Women and Design, Judy Attfield and Pat Kirkham, (eds.) Women's Press, 1989.

‘Women in the Edwardian Pottery Industry, Feminist Arts News, vol.2, no. 5, 1987.

Peer-reviewed journal articles

’Conceptualizing Fashion in Everyday Lives’, (with Hazel Clark) Design Issues, vol.28, no. 4, Autumn 2012.

Special issue, ‘Channel Crossings: Continental European Émigrés, Exiles And Migrants 1933 To 1956’, (with Tobias Hochscherf) Visual Culture in Britain, vol.13, no.3, 2012.

’Made in Patriarchy: Towards a Feminist Analysis of Women and Design‘, PAD. Pages on Art and Design, http://padjournal.net/made-in-patriarchy/ 08, 2012.

‘Modernity, Tradition and the Design of the ‘Industrial Village’ of Dormanstown 1917-1921’, Journal of Design History, vol.23, no.1, 2010.

‘Moving Home: from York to New Earswick’, Studies in Decorative Arts, vol. XVI, no. 1, Fall-Winter, 2008-9.

'Subject of History? Anna Wetherill Olmsted and the organization of the Ceramic National exhibitions in the USA 1932-1941', Art History, vol.28, no.4, 2005.

‘”De-humanised Females and Amazonians”: Fashioning the Female Body in Home Chat, 1914-1918’, Gender and History, Vol. 14, issue 3, Nov 2002.

‘On the margins: Theorising the history and significance of making and designing clothes at home’, Journal Of Design History, vol. 11, no.2, 1998.

‘Design, Femininity and Modernism: Interpreting the work of Susie Cooper’, Journal of Design History, vol.7, no. 4, 1994.

‘Modernity/Femininity/Feminism’, Feminist Arts News, vol.3, no. 4, 1990.

‘Craft Hierarchies, Gender Divisions and the roles of Women Paintresses and Designers in the British Pottery Industry, 1890-1939’ Journal of Design History,vol.2, no. 4, 1990.

‘Made in Patriarchy: Towards a feminist analysis of women and design, Design Issues, vol. III, no. 2, Fall 1986.

Review article, 'Designed By Women', Art History, vol.9, no. 3, September 1986.

‘Miners’ Welfare: Pithead Bath Design in the 1920s and 1930s', The Architect's Journal, no. 24, vol. 179, 13 June 1984.

Grants & Awards

AHRC Cultural Engagement Grant, £40 k, 2013

AHRC Research Fellowship, £75k, 2012

AHRC CDA, £55K, 2011

AHRC BGP, £1.1m, 2009

HEIF 4, £200K, 2008

Research into Teaching, £20k, 2008

HEFCE Urban Regeneration: Making a Difference, ‘Record From the Outside’, £43k, 2007

Design History Society studentship, £24k, 2006

Paul Mellon Centre for British Art, (for Designing Modern Britain), £20k, 2005

Northumbria Craft Fellowship, ‘Curating the Crafts’, collaborative project with Shipley Art Gallery, Gateshead. Funded by RALP (Regional Arts Lottery); HLF (Heritage Lottery Funding); Sir James Knott Fund; Esmee Fairburn Foundation; Arts Council of England, £76k, 2004

Northern Arts, Craft Fellowship initial development, £15k, 2002

British Academy Research Small Research Grant, £5k, 2002

Arts and Humanities Research Council Sabbatical Leave Scheme, £13k, 2001

‘Patronage and Collecting at the Bowes Museum: A Study of the roles of John and Josephine Bowes’, joint project - Department of Historical and Critical Studies in collaboration with Bowes Museum, County Durham, £5k, 1995.

Juries, Committees, & Editorial Boards

Editor-in-chief Chair, Journal of Design History, 2011-

Advisory Board, Visual Culture in Britain, 2007-

Editorial Board, Journal of Design History, 2006-10

Editorial Board, Visual Culture in Britain, 2000-2006

Chair of Design History Society, 2006-9

AHRC Peer Review college member, 2005-Present

Member of AHRC Research Grants panel, 2010

Peer reviewing for international bodies and research councils. In addition to AHRC, Alexander Humboldt Foundation, ESRC, Canada Council for Arts, Canadian Social Science and Humanities Research Board

Keynotes and Invited Papers

'Yves St Laurent curation', at Filming Fashion: Fashioning Film symposium, The Bowes Museum and University of Durham, 24 October 2015.

'Designing Women', keynote lecture, at 'Women Make Fashion/Fashion Makes Women', Conference Celebrating 50 years of Dress History at The Courtauld, May 2015, The Courtauld Institute of Art, London.

'Conceptualising Fashion in Everyday Lives in 20th C London and New York' , at Fashion studies/Design culture: Convergences and Divergences, Design Research Conference series, November 2013, University of Southern Denmark, Kolding, Denmark.

‘Modern Times: Designing for the 20th century’, Enid and Lester Morse Smithsonian Lecture, December 2012, New York. Design Revolutions: Modern Timeshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B4qDIBepaI

‘Designing Women, Gender and Design’, No Longer in Exile. The Legacy and Future of Gender Studies, 26-27 March 2010, The New School for Social Research, New York.

Invited conference papers, lectures, radio –national or international (recent)

‘The Primavera Story: 1946 – 1967’, (with Janine Barker) at ‘Spaces and Places: British Design 1948-2012’, V& A Museum, May 2012

‘The Ceramic Designs of Jessie Tait’, Woman’s Hour , 22 February 2010,http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio4/womanshour/02/2010_08_mon.shtml

‘Tracing Fashion and Everyday Life’, (with Hazel Clark), Locating Fashion Studies. Research Sites and Practices, Parson’s School of Design, New York, 12-13 November 2010.

Non-invited conference papers, lectures (recent)

'Locating Fashion’s Everyday: collecting and curating everyday fashion’, Deconstructing Costume Histories: Rereading Identities in Fashion Collection and Exhibitions, 100th CAA conference, Los Angeles, February 22-25, 2012.

‘Authenticity, tradition and modernity: ‘Marguerite Wildenhain and Ruth Duckworth, two women émigré studio potters, 1930-65’, Bauhaus Women in Exile, conference at Dessau Bauhaus, Germany, 28-30 October 2011.

‘Fashion, the everyday and the politics of appearance: fashion and political action during second wave feminism, 1968-1973’, Design Activism and Social Change, Barcelona, September 7-10, 2011.

Conference convening (recent)

Joint convenor (with Tobias Hochscherf, (University of Kiel) ‘Transnationalism And Visual Culture In Britain: Émigrés And Migrants 1933 To 1956’, conference, Northumbria University, Newcastle upon Tyne, Sept 2009

Residencies, Fellowships and Visiting Professorships

Visiting Professor, Parsons School of Design and Smithsonian National Design Museum, Cooper-Hewitt, New York, 2006-

Guest curator, ‘Women and Ceramics’, Musée Beaux Arts de Montreal, Montreal, Canada, 2010-12

Posts in External Organisations

Consultant to the formation and development of the Henry Rothschild Study Centre, 2009- , Shipley Art Gallery, Tyne and Wear Museums.

Consultant to HLF ‘Designing the 20thC’, Shipley Art Gallery, Tyne and Wear Museums, 2010-

Chair of the Design History Society, 2006-2009

PhD Examinations

External Examiner, PhD. 'Branding Burberry: Britishness, Heritage, Labour and Consumption', Goldsmiths College, University of London, 2015.

External Examiner, PhD. Vanessa Vanden Berghe,'Oliver Hill and the enigma of British modernism in the inter-war period', University of East London, 2014 (Architectural History)

External PhD examining External Examiner, PhD ‘The Decline of the High Wycombe Furniture Industry since 1952’, University of Buckingham, 2013.

External Examiner, PhD ‘High Style and Society: Class, Taste and Modernity in British Interwar Decorating’, University of Kingston, 2012.

External Examiner, PhD on ‘Design Council exhibitions, 1947-1970’, University of Brighton, 2009

External Jury member for PhD examination, University of Aveiro, Portugal, 2005.

External Examiner, PhD in Design History at Bard Graduate Center for Studies in History of Decorative Arts, Design and Material Culture, New York, 2004.

External Examiner, MPhil on ‘Shop Window Display and Design in Britain in the 1930s’, Royal College of Art, 2002.

External Examiner, PhD on ‘Lives and Roles of Women at Della Robbia Pottery, Birkenhead, late 19th-early 20th centuries’, Oxford Brookes University, 2002.

External Examiner, PhD in History of Design and Museology, Royal College of Art, 2000.

Recent PhD completions:

Marianne Wilde, ‘Seeing & Saying: Visual imaginings for disease causing genetic mutations’ Fine Art practice', Northumbria University, 2012 (Fine Art practice)

Carla Cesare, ‘Sewing the Self: Needlework, Femininity and Domesticity in Interwar Britain’, Northumbria University, 2012 (Design History)

Joanne Gooding, ‘Design History in Britain from the 1970s to 2012’, Northumbria University, 2012 (Design History)

Mark Armstrong, ‘The Quentin Kind: Visual Narrative and the Naked Civil Servant’, Northumbria University, 2012 (Design History)

David Dye, ‘Backwards into the Future: an exploration into revisiting , representing and rewriting art of the late 1960s and early 1970s’, Northumbria University, 2010 (Fine Art practice- PhD by publication)

Michael Johnson, ‘Architectural taste and patronage in Newcastle upon Tyne, 1870-1914’, Northumbria University, 2009 (Design History)

Lucille Nolan, ‘Vision Science and the visual arts: an enquiry into the science of perception and the art of immersion’, Northumbria University, 2009 (Fine Art practice)

         
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