'"L'English Style": ler origines de la création de Mode en Grande-Bretagne de 1950 aux annees 1970', in D Veillon, M Ruffat eds LA Mode des Sixties Editions Autrement, Paris 2007.
From 2001 to 2004 I was an active member of the Institut d’Histoire du Temp Présent, Paris (CNRS) research team, working for three years on clarifying current critical approaches to the study of dress/fashion and its relationship to cultural/social/political change. I became a member of the group’s related conference planning committee, which organised an international conference at the le Centre National d’Art et de Culture, the Pompidou centre, in 2005, titled ‘Se Vêtir’, advising on themes and international participants.
My invited contribution to all, of this was to introduce and promote object-focused material culture approaches to the study of dress history to this distinguished research group, which includes social, business and media historians – a methodology which is surprisingly underused in France, outside ethnographical circles.
My chapter in the publication of conference papers, offers for the first time a rationale for the internationally recognised character of English fashion today as ‘eccentric.’ I tracked this back, through close garment research building on work for the V and A’s International Arts and Crafts (See L. Parry, 2005) to English arts and crafts styles and philosophy of the 1870s. These lapped into London couture design from around 1900 (See Messel book 2005) but never into Paris couture.