Design for Ageing Well - Textiles

Vikki Haffenden, Technical Demonstrator in Knitted Textiles visited the University of Ulster in November 2009 to attend a consortium meeting of Design for Ageing Well, a New Dynamics of Ageing, ESRC funded research project in which she is a co-investigator. Since its launch in  April 2009 the project has been gathering data and consolidating its multi-disciplinary, collaborative team which includes experts in vital sign monitoring, information networking, mobile technology, smart textiles, clothing and wearable technologies, 3D body scanning, body shape , behaviour and gerontology. Other co-investigators are from the Universities of Wales, Salford and Westminster and there are a number of industrial consultants.

The underlying ethos of the research is user-centred, focusing on the active 60-75 age group with close links to older walking communities near Salford and in South Wales. This is a deliberate age range, more specific than the concept of ‘Best Agers’; a group deemed to be 50+ and active sports people. Design for Ageing Well is concerned with an older, less sport-focused user, who is still active, and may wish to increase their activity, but may be limited by social, emotional or physical problems both real and perceived. The project will encourage preservation of autonomy and independence in an ageing population by encouraging increased levels of activity and wellbeing in urban as well as more rugged environments.

A walking field-trip in the Mountains of Mourne took place during the weekend prior to the consortium’s meeting. This presented an opportunity for cross disciplinary familiarisation with monitoring technology through wearing/carrying different equipment, experiencing it’s practical application and being party to subsequent data analysis. An informal contextual survey of what this cross section of different ages and fitness levels require with them when walking was carried out and levels of necessity and ingenuity recorded. A post-field trip discussion on the appropriateness of clothing and footwear was similarly enlightening across disciplines, revealing that choices amongst the group were influenced by economics even for the most frequent walkers. Amongst the older members, efficiency (warmth, waterproofing) and aesthetics (colour, cut) were found to be of equal importance and for the younger members labels were additionally influential.

Design for Ageing Well will be represented at ISPO (International Trade Fair for Sports Goods and Sports Clothing) in February 2010 in partnership with ISPO ‘Best Agers’, presenting an opportunity to promote a survey gathering international data on outdoor clothing for the project. This exercise will supplement behavioural data relating to exercise in the 60-75 age group.   SIzeUK findings and the project’s purpose-specific 3D body-scan data has enabled selection of groups representative of a population of active agers for garment/technology design development, testing and evaluation.

That there is a need for aesthetically pleasing and well fitting clothing for the ageing is undeniable (Church Gibson; Goldsberry, Shim and Reich). As shown by ISPO’s Best Agers Sports Study, the over 50’s find it hard to purchase sport clothing that is aesthetically desirable, technically suitable for use and fits their social needs. Best Ager has studied the retail market and predicts that, "...the adult generation will be the most lucrative customers of the next decade". It therefore follows that a real market potential as well as critical social need can be met by this project (ISPO.com).

Goldsberry, E., S. Shim, and N. Reich. 'Women 55 Years and Older. Ii. Overall Satisfaction and Dissatisfaction with the Fit of Ready-to-Wear'. Clothing & Textiles Research Journal 14.2 1996. pp.121-132.

Church Gibson, Pamela. 'No One Expects Me Anywhere: Invisible Women, Aging and the Fashion Industry'. Fashion Cultures:Theories,Explorations and Analysis. Eds. Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Gibson. London: Routledge, 2000. pp.78-88.